Even if the only historical date known by most French people is 1515 and the victory of Marignan, won by French king Francis 1st in Italy, opposed to Swiss mercenaries, another major event occurred some 83 years later, in 1598, when French king Henry IV signed the ‘Édit de Nantes’.
This famous ‘Édit’ could be summed up as a Tolerance Treaty organising the freedom given to the protestant churches in France, and ending 36 years of religious wars between Catholics and Protestants (called ‘Huguenots’ at that time), from 1562 to 1598.
French king Henry IV not only loved women. He had at least 2 kids with famously painted Gabrielle d’Estrées (Louvre museum), César in 1594 and Henriette-Catherine in 1596. Henry IV was also a very active builder both for new buildings and palaces and for the roads of France. He actually launched the works of the oldest Paris Place, the ‘Place Royale’, which became ‘Place des Vosges’ in 1800, near Bastille.
‘Place des Vosges’ architecture was actually influenced by the Italian architects brought to France by former queen ‘Catherine of Médicis’, wife to king Henry II, and mother to French Valois kings Francis II, Charles IX and Henry III. ‘Place des Vosges’ resembles the places built at that time in Italy, like in Bologna, built on a square map of covered galeries, built in stone, red bricks and small domes with spiers.
Easily reachable from Bastille, Saint-Michel or the ‘Saint-Louis’ or ‘Cité’ islands (Notre-Dame cathedral), ‘Place des Vosges’ was essentially built during king Louis XIII reign (1610-1643) and the assassination of the most beloved French king (Henri IV) by a monk, Ravaillac.
‘Place des Vosges’ ows its name to the ‘Convention Assembly’, 1st Assembly elected by all citizens after the French Revolution, which thanked the ‘Vosges’ county for its tax zeal ! Indeed, ‘Vosges’ was the 1st of the French counties to accept to pay national taxes and to send volunteers (Remiremont) to the new elected government among the French turmoils of the Revolution.
Inaugurated in 1612 by French king Louis XIII, upon his engagement with Princess ‘Anne’ of Austria, the mother of the French ‘Sun-king’, Louis XIV, a giant show of ‘Grand Carrousel’ with hundreds of horses was organised by Antoine de Pluvinel in the center of the then ‘Place Royale’.
At that time, the center of the place was in sand and was used for 60 years for various shows, games and tournaments, such as ‘Jeux de bagues’ where aristocrat riders used to compete to reach a ring. ‘Place des Vosges’ called ‘Place Royale’ at that time has also been famous for many duels, of which the one that led to the execution of one of the former Louis XIII generals ‘François de Montmorency-Bouteville’. This gentleman was indeed condemned to public decapitation on the «Place de Grève» on June 22, 1627, after he was convicted of fighting a 5th forbidden public duel (and killing 3 other aristocrats in the doing).
Only in 1670 was the centre of ‘Place Royale’ (now ‘Place des Vosges’) planted and flowered with stone fountains and it became one of the earliest closed Paris gardens with closed barriers in 1687, opened to all Paris citizens and visitors.
You will discover marvels and magical places on or around the ‘Place des Vosges’ along with several Art Galeries, the famous Tea lounge ‘Chez Carette’, the Victor Hugo museum (‘Hôtel de Rohan-Guéméné’, N°6), the famous restaurant ‘L’Ambroisie’, on the ‘9 place des Vosges’, awarded 3 stars in the Michelin Guide or interesting French food at ‘Ma Bourgogne’ on the ’19 place des Vosges’ :
*** A l’Élégance d’Autrefois, 5 rue du Pas de la Mule, 75004 Paris. A magical place, quite unique, where a former Theatre costume designer has gathered about 25,000 pieces of costumes from the 1930s till the 1980s. You may buy or rent hats, shoes, capes, gloves, dresses, women or men coats or umbrellas for your birthday parties, weddings or costumed parties. Claudio, who has a fabulous Tenor voice, may dress you upstairs from head to foot so that you look like the great Gastby or other elegant people from the 1910s or 1950s or the famous Paris gentlemen of the 1920s… Our favorite original shop. Ring and enter the 2-storey shop. Claudio will look after you.
*** Christian Louis, parfumeur, 18 place des Vosges, 75004 Paris. An extravagant universe of perfumes and scents, created by Christian Louis, ‘maître parfumeur à Paris’ and in the Basque Southwestern French region. Christian Louis is an incredible creator, with a superb ‘nez’, a magnificent decoration and a true passion for his Art.
*** Juice Lab, 2 rue du Béarn, 75003 Paris. Right after the arcade going towards ‘rue Saint-Gilles’ and ‘Chemin Vert’ L8 subway station or after the left-hand entrance to the ‘Pavillon de la Reine’, a superb hotel. A 2014 Franco-American start-up with fresh fruit and vegetable juices, slowly cold pressed, with intense & original flavours, without any industrial food preservatives.
*** La Carte des Vins, 26 Bd Beaumarchais, 75011 Paris. When walking past the ‘Hugo Cafe’ corner on one of the ‘Place des Vosges’ corner and walking up past ‘A l’Élégance d’Autrefois’ on the ‘rue du Pas de la Mule’, you will find that Wine corner, about 50 meters from ‘Place des Vosges’. Certainly one of the Top 10 Paris caves in choice and originality, be that in best wines, Champagne, Whisky, Rhum, Gin or other fabulous regional herbs and fruit alcohols from the French regions. You will find alltogether over 2000 références of wines coming from France and the rest of the world, as well as wine accessories, like glasses, corks or carafes !
And sometimes even… a bottle being tasted by the Cave team with… favored clients !
*** Antik Batik, 18 rue de Turenne, 75004 Paris, women fashion, about 100m from the ‘Place des Vosges’. The creator Gabriella Cortese has the travelling soul of her Hungarian grandmother and her Italian parents. She fell in love with Paris and the French Arts, fashion and language when she was a Paris student. After long travels she did herself to Tibet, China, India, Indonesia and other countries and having such an elegant mother, Gabriella created ‘Antik Batik’ in 1992, between beauty, travel and passion.
In all these places, you may say you are coming with the special recommendation of ‘François’.
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